Let me get this out of the way here: Edinbugh is AMAZING, FANTASTIC, BEAUTIFUL, FUN, and HISTORIC!!! I LOVE SCOTLAND!!!!
Friday, we woke up at 600, left nido at 630, and caught the 700 train to Edinburgh. We were a bit punchy from the early morning-ness of it, so we were very giggly and loud on the train, playing MASH and exclaiming at the views before Melissa and Erica nodded off and I tried to read some of The Moonstone. You know, I can’t really remember much more of that ride other than laughing a lot, but that was kind of the general theme of the weekend.
We rolled into Edinburgh Waverly station at 1130, and made our (brief) way to the High Street Hostel (which was just off the Royal Mile–great location, especially for only 13 pounds a night), then we set off to the Elephant Cafe, where JK Rowling penned much of the early Harry Potter books. Delicious, (relatively) cheap eats, loose tea, and one of the best chocolate cakes I’ve ever had. It had to be homade; it was so moist and just the right flavoring, with homemade icing, too. Little did I know that that would be the first of many heavenly desserts to be had over the next few days.

After lunch, we walked toward New Town, stopping at the Scottish National Museum (i think) which sits right in the middle of the park that disects the city between New Town (mostly Georgian) and Old Town (gothic). It was a wonderful little museum with some nice pieces from Raphael to Van Gogh, but the best part of it was the design inside. The large rooms with the huge Renaissance and Dutch school (i think) paintings and portraits were in huge rooms with deep red walls, and the religious altar works were in a smaller room dressed in rich forest green tapestry wallpaper, and the impressionist works were in rooms of all pastels. Each choice perfectly complimented the artwork of that room. Plus the docents wore tartan pants.

After the museum, we went shopping on Princes St (I finally caved and bought a nautical-inspired striped shirt). Then nap time at the hostel, followed by dinner at one of the taverns/pubs on the Royal Mile. Where I had haggis. That’s right, and it was pretty delicious. It came with the traditional sides of neeps and tatties (mashed potatoes and mashed turnips), which were also pretty good. Erica tried it, too, but Melissa did not, so she’ll never know the yumminess of that paragon of utility food. Our server there was awesome and Austrailian (few true Scots seemed to work at the restaurants we patronized), and recommended this beyond-delicious desert called the lumpy bumpy–chocolate sponge base, vanilla mousse, chocolate mousse, whipped cream, and chocolate ganache. It was gone between the three of us within a minute. Words cannot describe this dessert.
(mmm, haggis)
After that, we went on a ghost tour. It wasn’t especially scary, but it was pretty entertaining, especially when our tour guide chose members of the group to be English traitors and whipped them, witches, and a dismembered murderer (“How do you feel?” “Sore.”). The last bit of the tour took us to the Edinburgh vaults, an underground labyrinth beneath the city, and justifiably creepy. Both Erica and I felt a little off down there, but it might have been just psyching ourselves up about it. I also took a picture that showed an “orb,” be it dust or a ghost. The guide was a great storyteller and the stories were great, but I wish it had been creepier (maybe we should have done the midnight “terror” tour offered by another company). It was a lot of fun, nevertheless.
Next day, (and to preamble: I am NOT a stalker, nor do I have those tendencies, despite what the following anecdote may imply; I just don’t care too much about what strangers will think of me) we had brunch at a restaurant called Garfunkle’s, which is a chain, but they served breakfast until 1100, so we didn’t much care. One of the waiters there was gorgeous, but he knew it. We all ogled him throughout the meal, and one of the group suggested off-hand that we should try to get a picture. It was said in that way that you know nothing will come of it . . . if I’m not present. After we paid our check, I approached the waiter, saying that he looked just like a friend of ours and could we get a picture. I prefaced it by saying that I knew it was weird, but he totally shot me down. I was fine with that but for the fact that Erica and Melissa took their sweet time getting up from the table. That was one of those situations that required a hasty retreat, and it didn’t happen. Awk. but funny. A similar thing happened the next day, but that was only stalker-esque photography at a distance (cute boys in Holyrood park). Seriously, don’t mention things like that within my earshot unless you are prepared for the followthrough.
After breakfast/brunch, we went to Edinburgh castle, just in time to see the gun be fired at 1300. They shoot off a cannon (a gunpowder charge, not a cannonball) every day at 1pm and have done for ages. It’s a pretty cool tradition, and you really can hear it all over the city. The castle was really cool, as most castles are, and it housed the Scottish crown jewels and the Stone of Destiny, and seeing them was worth the long, rambling, mannequin/effigy filled path to the room that housed them. At the gift shop, I bought a CD called “Red Hot Chilli Pipers: Bagrock for the Masses” of Bagpipe covers of rock songs (the best being “We Will Rock You/Eye of the Tiger,” “Hey Jude,” and “Clocks”). I am my father’s daughter; it is a truly great impulse buy.
(the gun, no body reached for it)
After that, we took a cab to “the sea,” aka Leith, to get out to the city and see the sea. Because it’s pretty. We even got a lunch recommendation from the cabbie (cabbies really are fantastic in the UK) at the Peacock tavern, and a second to that recommendation when we had to ask this guy on the street where it was (“Can you tell us where the Peacock is?” “Yes.” “. . .” “I haven’t been down here for thirty years . . . ah, yes, go down that street and turn right go a wee three hundred yards. There are signs out front. Great for seafood.” [Can we take you home or steal your accent, you adorable old Scotsman?]). Delicious food, yet again, at not too bad a price, and of course, scrumptious desserts. (oh, and a door almost knocked me out, but none of you are surprised at that.)
(almost like home!)
After lunch, we bussed back to New Town, went souveneir shopping, then back to the hostel to prepare for a night out. We ate at a pub then made our way to four of five more (one had a great performer singing pop-rock covers but was super crowded), but the median age in all of them was about 35, so we kept moving on. It was fun anyway (duh), and we got back to the hostel in enough time to get a good sleep before the early check-out the next morning.
Sunday, we checked out, left our bags at the hostel, got breakfast (which for me included veg haggis, which was also quite good), then made our way down the royal mile toward Holyrood house. We stopped in a number of little shops and a few tourist traps, but I also got to revisit the Soap Co., where I got fantastic hand-pressed soaps two years ago, and Neanie Scot’s souveneir shop, where the same woman was behind the counter and still as locquacious and welcoming as ever. That was really nice, to be able to tell her that I remembered her shop and brought my friends (it’s family owned and a bit away from the main touristy areas).

We then went to Holyrood park to climb the cliffs around Arthur’s Seat; it was like a little bit of the highlands at the edge of the Royal Mile. Fantastic bit of nature. I loved it, regardless of the muddy paths and occasional slips. I even got a little Pride and Prejudice moment, standing near the edge, with the wind billowing my scarf and hair back. Alas, no Darcy to brood over, but brooding’s no fun anyway. I adore nature right on the edge or in the middle of cities. London parks, Vienna parks, Edinburgh parks, it doesn’t matter. Love.

We then made our way back up the Royal Mile, ate lunch (with again, great dessert), got our bags, made it to the train station easy-peasy, and got on the 1645 train to King’s Cross. It was an even longer train ride returning than out (both relative time and marked time), but we saw a beyond-beautiful sunset north of Newcastle: the sky burnt rust and orange, silhouetting the treeline of the horizon.
It was a fantastic trip, fairly close to perfect. Scotland, you rule.
(an homage to my favorite brother)